I can only tell you that I have 2 of them for what I do as one doesn’t totally fit the bill. I have a Nodal Ninja 5 head
for my Canon 5d mK2 when I shoot general stuff and sports. I like it traveling and just general photography where I
don’t need to have a lot of stuff or worry about batteries etc. The other head is a must for me when I shoot large
groups and aerials. It is the Seitz Roundshot VR Drive. This head allows me to be hands free while shooting a
panorama. I need to be able to do other things with my hands while shooting groups and for aerial photo pans,
the VR drive can be placed outside the helicopter and just operate on its own.
good to know george has found an affordable digital way for aerial-pans. Which shift-lens do you use and how big can you enlarge with 5d mk2 to get RS 65EL-quality?
Great, thanks Gentlemen. So the Nodal Ninja is the preferred choice for Manual applications I take it. Are there any other Notable brands out there for manual Pano Heads?
I appreciate your feedback.
Michel,
According to the airlines’ websites: ISO/ASA below 800 ASA are safe. Bryan and I have NOT had any problems (about 10 years ago) travelling with medium format film. They hand checked it fine. We were also traveling with a smaller (early) consumer digital camera, and had no problems. If you travel with a laptop, remember to leave the battery in. The TSA will want to check it all together. Sorry that B didn’t respond sooner…
I took a 5 week trip to the Balkans during October and November 2011. I used 60 rolls of ASA 400 220 film (C-41). The film was x-rayed twice and was OK. I also just returned from France with 80 rolls (mostly ASA 400 120 film (C-41)) which was x-rayed 3 times without a problem. On previous trips I’ve had my film (mostly ASA 400) x-rayed as many as 6 times without a problem. One word of warning though – DO NOT PUT YOUR FILM IN CHECKED LUGGAGE. The dosage they use for checked luggage is much higher than they use for carryons. I always request a hand check in the USA for ALL film. This is not possible (or very difficult) in most other countries.
A good lens for panoramic photos is very subjective. Almost any lens can be used, but some are easier than others. For proper digital stitching you need to find the nodal point (also called the entrance pupil) of the lens. If it is a zoom lens then the nodal point can change for each focal length of the lens. Generally a prime lens is simplest to work with because it only has the single nodal point to locate (there are actually two nodal points for each lens but you don’t have to worry about the second one). It also depends on the panoramic subject. For VR pans many people use an 8mm fisheye, or even a 14mm or 15mm lens. For non-VR pans I generally use a Canon 45mm prime lens on a Jasper Panoramic Adapter (no longer made). For a Nikon, any 50mm lens would work the same. You could also try anything between 50mm and a 135mm for general purpose pans. At longer focal lengths, the nodal point gets very difficult to locate and is usually in a virtual location far in front of the lens.
As far as specific software for panorama stitching, there are so many it is difficult to say which is best. I personally have used AutoPano Pro for a number of years and have had no reason to change.
Sylvia
I used the Nikon 16mm fisheye on a Nikon D700 very successfully, but it is nowhere near sharp enough to resolve the full detail the D800 is capable off. I don’t think there is a lens out there for panorama work that will be sharp enough, but the Nikon 16mm would be a good start as it has nice tones and is reliable and robust for field work. If you are doing gigapixel type panoramas then the lens and results will change.
For stitching, I use PTGui and it is awesome although with a steep learning curve. Hugin is also very well thought of, and maybe a bit easier to use, as well as free.
Drop me an email if you want to know more.
Mike
Hi folks, I just wanted to introduce myself. I am a panoramic photographer and virtual tour maker who normally is based in the UK, but I am presently living in Moscow, Russia, which is pretty good fun. You can see my work at http://www.moosooboo.com/. I’ve applied to join the association so will see what happens. Enjoy my site if you stop by. Kind regards Mike
Hello Mike,
Nice website and it sounds as if you are having a great time in Moscow. Once you become a member I hope you will consider writing some articles for the monthly electronic newsletter, the e-Monitor. It’s written by the membership and for the membership.
I’m a panoramic landscape photographer from Brisbane, AUS. I shoot 6×17 Medium format on Fuji Velvia 50 and Ilford FP4+/Pan F+.
I am planning to Join the IAPP in the next month or so. I was wondering what (if any) meetings occur in Australia, how many Australian members there are and what are the key benefits of joining.
Alex, There are many members in Australia – and many people are open to travel – so, get together with your fellow Australian photogs and plan a meet! Let us know, and how we can help. We will advertise it here and perhaps, we (as in me and my husband) can plan a terrific trip!
Available For Sale!
Cirkut film – $30 per roll, minimum 5 rolls. 800 rolls available.
For more information contact:
Chris Tyler at Goldbeck Company (210) 548-0754
Also available for free – just pick it up:
Kreonite Processor. Call Chris for more info.
do you have a panoramic camera for sale?
Is this all 10 inch?
Color or B&W?
Good afternoon, What is the preferred tripod head for panoramic photography?
Brian,
The two most popular systems for producing panoramic images are:
(1) Roundshot VR Drive
(2) Nodal Ninja
I can only tell you that I have 2 of them for what I do as one doesn’t totally fit the bill. I have a Nodal Ninja 5 head
for my Canon 5d mK2 when I shoot general stuff and sports. I like it traveling and just general photography where I
don’t need to have a lot of stuff or worry about batteries etc. The other head is a must for me when I shoot large
groups and aerials. It is the Seitz Roundshot VR Drive. This head allows me to be hands free while shooting a
panorama. I need to be able to do other things with my hands while shooting groups and for aerial photo pans,
the VR drive can be placed outside the helicopter and just operate on its own.
good to know george has found an affordable digital way for aerial-pans. Which shift-lens do you use and how big can you enlarge with 5d mk2 to get RS 65EL-quality?
Great, thanks Gentlemen. So the Nodal Ninja is the preferred choice for Manual applications I take it. Are there any other Notable brands out there for manual Pano Heads?
I appreciate your feedback.
What are the best software for the production of virtual tours?
I want to know where I find the best code in Matlab for image stitching, thanks a bunch!
Has anyone worked with SpheroVision? Is there any benefit working with them over buying the software to do your own panoramic photography?
Hi everybody,
What are the precautions to take for airplane travelling with 120 or 220 – 400asa films ( RX airport !!!) ???
Michel,
According to the airlines’ websites: ISO/ASA below 800 ASA are safe. Bryan and I have NOT had any problems (about 10 years ago) travelling with medium format film. They hand checked it fine. We were also traveling with a smaller (early) consumer digital camera, and had no problems. If you travel with a laptop, remember to leave the battery in. The TSA will want to check it all together. Sorry that B didn’t respond sooner…
Michel,
I took a 5 week trip to the Balkans during October and November 2011. I used 60 rolls of ASA 400 220 film (C-41). The film was x-rayed twice and was OK. I also just returned from France with 80 rolls (mostly ASA 400 120 film (C-41)) which was x-rayed 3 times without a problem. On previous trips I’ve had my film (mostly ASA 400) x-rayed as many as 6 times without a problem. One word of warning though – DO NOT PUT YOUR FILM IN CHECKED LUGGAGE. The dosage they use for checked luggage is much higher than they use for carryons. I always request a hand check in the USA for ALL film. This is not possible (or very difficult) in most other countries.
Dave Orbock
I wanted to know what is a good lens for Nikon d800 for panorama pictures. Also is their a specific software for panorama’s.
thanks
sylvia
Sylvia,
A good lens for panoramic photos is very subjective. Almost any lens can be used, but some are easier than others. For proper digital stitching you need to find the nodal point (also called the entrance pupil) of the lens. If it is a zoom lens then the nodal point can change for each focal length of the lens. Generally a prime lens is simplest to work with because it only has the single nodal point to locate (there are actually two nodal points for each lens but you don’t have to worry about the second one). It also depends on the panoramic subject. For VR pans many people use an 8mm fisheye, or even a 14mm or 15mm lens. For non-VR pans I generally use a Canon 45mm prime lens on a Jasper Panoramic Adapter (no longer made). For a Nikon, any 50mm lens would work the same. You could also try anything between 50mm and a 135mm for general purpose pans. At longer focal lengths, the nodal point gets very difficult to locate and is usually in a virtual location far in front of the lens.
As far as specific software for panorama stitching, there are so many it is difficult to say which is best. I personally have used AutoPano Pro for a number of years and have had no reason to change.
Bryan Snow
Sylvia
I used the Nikon 16mm fisheye on a Nikon D700 very successfully, but it is nowhere near sharp enough to resolve the full detail the D800 is capable off. I don’t think there is a lens out there for panorama work that will be sharp enough, but the Nikon 16mm would be a good start as it has nice tones and is reliable and robust for field work. If you are doing gigapixel type panoramas then the lens and results will change.
For stitching, I use PTGui and it is awesome although with a steep learning curve. Hugin is also very well thought of, and maybe a bit easier to use, as well as free.
Drop me an email if you want to know more.
Mike
Hi folks, I just wanted to introduce myself. I am a panoramic photographer and virtual tour maker who normally is based in the UK, but I am presently living in Moscow, Russia, which is pretty good fun. You can see my work at http://www.moosooboo.com/. I’ve applied to join the association so will see what happens. Enjoy my site if you stop by. Kind regards Mike
Hello Mike,
Nice website and it sounds as if you are having a great time in Moscow. Once you become a member I hope you will consider writing some articles for the monthly electronic newsletter, the e-Monitor. It’s written by the membership and for the membership.
Bryan Snow – Publications Editor – IAPP
Hello All,
I am new to this unique format.
Any suggestions on how to become a member?
I cannot find anything on the website.
Thank you.
check this:
http://www.panoramicassociation.org/join-us/
upper gray bar of the website.
looking forward to having you join us!
Hi everyone,
I’m a panoramic landscape photographer from Brisbane, AUS. I shoot 6×17 Medium format on Fuji Velvia 50 and Ilford FP4+/Pan F+.
I am planning to Join the IAPP in the next month or so. I was wondering what (if any) meetings occur in Australia, how many Australian members there are and what are the key benefits of joining.
Thanks
Regards,
Alex.
Alex, There are many members in Australia – and many people are open to travel – so, get together with your fellow Australian photogs and plan a meet! Let us know, and how we can help. We will advertise it here and perhaps, we (as in me and my husband) can plan a terrific trip!
What sizes available ?
Thanks
Ron,
I have a 8″ & 10″ Cirkut for sale.
Dave Orbock
What year was the Moab convertion